How a commission runs

Twelve weeks.
Four fittings.

Bespoke is slow because the corrections happen on your body, not on a screen. Here is exactly where the time goes.

Week 0

The measure

An hour in the shop. Twenty-two measurements, posture noted, and an honest conversation about what you already wear and what you never wear. You leave without committing to anything.

Week 1

Cutting the pattern

Your own paper pattern is drafted by hand and kept in the workshop under your name. Every later commission starts from it, adjusted.

Week 4

First fitting — the baste

The garment is tacked together in white thread, with one sleeve. It will look alarming. This is where balance, blade and shoulder are corrected on your body rather than on paper.

Week 7

Second fitting

Now it looks like a jacket. Sleeves on, collar set, pockets marked. Fine adjustments to waist suppression and length — this is the fitting clients remember.

Week 10

Third fitting

Finishing details: buttons, cuff, trouser break over your own shoes. Usually twenty minutes.

Week 12

Collection

Pressed, bagged, and a note in the file of what we would change next time. Alterations for the first year are included.

Cloth chosen for a commission

The cloth is cut once. Everything before that is reversible; nothing after it is.

Honestly

What can go wrong.

Your weight changes

Within about 4 kg we can re-cut. Beyond that the pattern needs redrafting, and we will tell you rather than let out a seam that should not be let out.

The cloth runs out

Mills discontinue. We buy the full length up front for exactly this reason, so a repair in year six uses the same bolt.

You change your mind

Up to the first fitting, freely. After the cloth is cut, the cloth is cut — that part we cannot undo, and we say so before we cut.