The cloth library

Three hundred cloths.
Four questions.

Where will you wear it, in what weather, how often, and for how many years. Answer those honestly and the book narrows to about six — these are the eight we reach for most.

Navy hopsack

An open weave that breathes and refuses to crease. The one jacket to own if you only own one.

290 g4 seasons

Charcoal worsted

The plain business suit, and the hardest to make interesting. We do it with the cut, not the cloth.

310 g4 seasons

Brown flannel

Brushed, soft, forgiving. Wears warm and photographs beautifully.

340 gWinter

Grey fresco

High-twist and porous. The only thing we recommend for August in the city.

260 gSummer

Olive tweed

Heavy enough to hold a shape through rain. Cut roomier on purpose.

420 gCountry

Midnight mohair

A discreet sheen under artificial light. Dinner jackets, and nothing else.

280 gEvening

Oatmeal linen

It creases. That is the point, and anyone who matters knows it.

240 gSummer

Bottle corduroy

Eight-wale. For trousers that get worn every weekend for a decade.

380 gWinter
Weight

The number that decides everything.

Cloth weight is given in grams per linear metre. It governs how a garment hangs, how it creases, how long it lasts and which months you can wear it. Almost every regret we hear about a suit made elsewhere is a weight problem.

  • 240–270Summer

    Open weaves and high-twist yarns. Wears cool, creases readily, needs a fuller cut to hang.

  • 280–320All year

    The workhorse range. If you are buying one suit, buy it here.

  • 330–380Autumn / winter

    Flannels and heavier worsteds. Holds a line, hides a lot, warm indoors.

  • 380+Country & outerwear

    Tweeds and coatings. Cut generously; these are not office cloths.

Come and handle them.

Cloth photographs badly and always has. Twenty minutes in the shop with the books open tells you more than any screen.

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